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A Year of Drinking Less Dangerously (Ep. 51)

January 17, 2023 · Leave a Comment

INTRO

In our 51st episode we take stock of things and decide to reflect on the effects alcohol has on our bodies while contemplating ways of drinking less to more safely enjoy these drinks we know and love.

CREDITS

Theme Song: Begin Anywhere by Tomoko Miyata (http://tomokomiyata.net/)

Mixing and Editing and Interrogator: Rich Pav (https://www.uncannyrobotpodcast.com/)

HOSTS

CHRISTOPHER PELLEGRINI Vermont born and bred, long-time Tokyo resident and author of The Shochu Handbook, Christopher learned about delicious fermentations as a beer brewer at Otter Creek (Middlebury, VT). He now spends most of his waking hours convincing strangers that shochu and awamori are unlike anything they’ve ever tried before. 

STEPHEN LYMAN discovered Japan’s indigenous spirits at an izakaya in New York City. He was so enthralled that he now lives in Japan and works in a tiny craft shochu distillery every autumn. His first book, The Complete Guide to Japanese Drinks, was nominated for a 2020 James Beard Award.

Stephen and Christopher are constantly aware of the risks of being professional drinkers.

If you have any comments or questions about this episode, please reach out to Stephen or Christopher via Twitter. We would love to hear from you. 

SHOW NOTES

Should start this off by recommending Adam Rogers’ excellent Proof. A fantastic book about the science of alcohol from production to hangovers.

Alcohol Effects

Immediate Effects: When you start drinking, alcohol goes straight to your head and begins altering yours experience nearly immediately. Ethanol blocks glutamate and GABA receptors, which creates a sense of calm and releases powerful doses of serotonin and dopamine. You’re essentially getting an artificial dose of opiates that your body creates naturally.

Very quickly, you sensory perception alters and you begin having changes in emotions and other mental activities. As this is happening, the liver begins working on the alcohol, which it considers a toxin. The alcohol is broken into acetaldehyde, which is a very dangerous compound. A healthy liver can further break the acetaldehyde down into harmless byproducts, but that’s only the case in relatively healthy people.

Once you get deeper into your cups, you begin to lose motor control, memory, and other physical and mental capacity, which results in imbalance and potential for injury.

And, of course, we’ve all heard of the happy drunk, angry drunk, or sad drunk. Alcohol creates an artificial emotional response and can heighten emotions we already have. All of this is a potential recipe for violence or self harm if the drinking goes too far.

Hangovers: Unfortunately, there is no clear understanding of why hangovers occur or how to treat them. There are plenty of theories about both, but so far we do not have good answers despite hangovers accounting for billions of dollars in lost productivity every year in the US alone.

Alcohol Dependence: As the body becomes accustomed to the dopamine and serotonin it receives as a reward for drinking, it needs more alcohol to get the same feeling. This leads to a cascade of increased consumption that can lead to heavy drinking or even addiction.

Long-term Effects: Heavy alcohol consumption can lead to a wide variety of diseases ranging from cancer to heart disease to cirrhosis of the liver. Many of these are irreversible and potentially fatal.

Drinking Mindfully

People’s relationship with alcohol can perhaps be classified broadly into these categories:

Never Drinkers – self explanatory.

Infrequent Drinkers – people who only partake rarely.

Social Drinkers – people who drink in social situations, but tend not to indulge otherwise.

Regular Drinkers – people who enjoy alcohol independently whether socializing or not.

Problem Drinkers – people who have moved into the danger zone of dependence and over-indulgence.

The borderline between healthy and unhealthy likely lies between regular and problem drinkers, though of course, regular drinkers may suffer some of the same long-term health effects as problem drinkers.

If you’re looking for ways to be more mindful in your drinking, here are a few potential strategies.

  1. Count your drinks – simply being aware can be useful. Stephen uses Reframe.
  2. Hydrate – water or rehydration drinks like Gatorade.
  3. Eat while drinking – fills your stomach and give the body nutrients.
  4. Education – learn about the effects of alcohol on your body. Reframe can help here too.
  5. Take a day off now and again.
  6. Quit for a week or so every so often to check on yourself.

How Japanese Spirits Can Help

Drinking Less
Maewari shochu in a kuro joka for communal service.

No alcohol consumption can be considered a healthy behavior, but if you are going to enjoy drinking, you may as well try to minimize its negative effects. Japanese drinking customs can help with that.

  1. Japanese drinks are almost always accompanied with food. Embrace that.
  2. Shochu is almost always consumed with dilution. That can help reduce intake.
  3. Communal service – sharing a carafe of shochu or awamori will make you drink more slowly than going by the glass.
  4. Vacuum distilled shochu lacks many of the congeners that are believed to be responsible for hangovers.
  5. KyuKanbi – take a regular day (or days) off from drinking.

Kanpai!

Our First Ever Spirits Q&A (Ep. 50)

December 30, 2022 · Leave a Comment

INTRO

In 50th episode we have a little spirits Q&A fun with our hosts answering listener questions about topics ranging from underrated distilleries to Casper the Friendly Ghost.

CREDITS

Intro: Theresa Matsuura of the Uncanny Japan Podcast.

Theme Song: Begin Anywhere by Tomoko Miyata (http://tomokomiyata.net/)

Mixing and Editing and Interrogator: Rich Pav (https://www.uncannyrobotpodcast.com/)

HOSTS

CHRISTOPHER PELLEGRINI Vermont born and bred, long-time Tokyo resident and author of The Shochu Handbook, Christopher learned about delicious fermentations as a beer brewer at Otter Creek (Middlebury, VT). He now spends most of his waking hours convincing strangers that shochu and awamori are unlike anything they’ve ever tried before. 

STEPHEN LYMAN discovered Japan’s indigenous spirits at an izakaya in New York City. He was so enthralled that he now lives in Japan and works in a tiny craft shochu distillery every autumn. His first book, The Complete Guide to Japanese Drinks, was nominated for a 2020 James Beard Award.

Stephen and Christopher enjoy fielding questions about their favorite drinks and just about anything else.

If you have any comments or questions about this episode, please reach out to Stephen or Christopher via Twitter. We would love to hear from you. 

SHOW NOTES

The Spirits Q&A Questions

GHOSTLY SPIRITS Q&A: 

Sakamichi Brewing: What’s your favourite Yōkai?

Joe from the Ishikawa Summit to Sea Podcast: Which spirit is better, shochu, or Casper the friendly ghost? 

DISTILLED SPIRITS Q&A:

Casey from the Beanpod Podcast: What’s your ‘holy grail’ of booze? 

Casey again: If you could only drink one alcoholic beverage for the rest of your life, what would it be? 

Craig Hoffman: Is there really that much difference in taste based on price, especially in the mid-range and mid-quality spirits in Japan? I feel I have often overpaid for some over the years.

Coffee or Shochu: For those traveling to Japan, are there any domestic / rare export bottles you would recommend to buy and bring home? We can assume space for only one or two bottles in a suitcase. It could be anything (shochu, whisky, rum, etc.)

Davey in Japan: What is the Goto drink on the shinkansen? I maintain beer but sake cups, chuhai, high balls, or drinking straight from the bottle all have their justifications.

SHOCHU/AWAMORI FOCUSED:

Ben Harris: If could only drink one shochu/awamori for the rest of your life what would it be? 

Joe from the Ishikawa Summit to Sea Podcast: Imagine you were buying a gift of shochu for someone who has never been to Japan and might not be used to the unique taste, what would you buy them and why?

Hakata Rick: In the way that fine wines are often paired with a certain kind of meal, would/could the same apply to shochu? If so, what are some of your personal favorites?

Ben Harris: In your opinion, what is the most underrated shochu/awamori distillery?

Sake Enthusiast: 

  1. Where should someone interested in shochu get started? Like someone living in the southern US who likes whiskey and bourbon. What advice would you give them to get their shochu journey started and what should they drink first.
  1. whats your end of year furusato nozei recommendations for shochu this year? 

Armando Cornejo: Do you think there will be a proposal from the industry to abolish the no-color rule for shochu?

Daniel Avispa: Is it ok to mix shochu with a flavored soda to have as sodawari? E.g. a good quality lemonade, or are we heading into chuhai territory? (of course, its down to personal taste, but interested in your thoughts).

CHUHAI QUESTION: 

Greg Beck: How did canned Chu-hi start and why didn’t they come to the states to compete with inferior “hard seltzer”?!?

Note: we did not answer the 1st part of that. For how canned chu-hai started, please refer to our Chuhai Episode (episode 25), where we get into that history.

RUM ?

Daniel Morales: What rum do you recommend for winter cocktails?

WHISKY ?

Renee Lang: I remember drinking Suntory, but I don’t remember which was most single malt Scotch-like. Is it the Toki? 

OTHER DRINKS QUESTIONS: 

Casey from The Beanpod Podcast: What beer(s) have stood out in the past year of your running/beer catalogue? 

Tavis Allen: Climate change and the spirits industry—Japan, globally—what are peoples’ thoughts/actions on the matter?

Michael Brock: have any peer-reviewed studies been done on this ヘパリーゼ  stuff?

Chris Pearce (comment, not a question): Bourbon is the holy grail of booze. Thoughts? 

Personal Questions: 

Craig Fisher: You eat that?!

Tavis Allen: 

Your Yamatozakura “internship”—how’d you get started? Do you know how many other foreigners are similarly involved in making spirits in Japan? How can one get involved?

What do your families—immediate and extended—think about what you do? What do they drink?

Anagman: would either of you update your book with a new edition, and if so, how? 

Jeff Cioletti: I want to put an Ocean’s 11 team together to steal the Satsuma Kiriko Christmas Tree outside Kagoshima Chuo Station. You in?

Random Brands Recommended on the Spirits Q&A

Japanese whisky service styles
Komagatake Limited Edition
Ozusu Gin
BeniSango Barrel Aged Kokuto Shochu
Manazuru
iichiko
Mushagaeshi
Rurikakesu Japanese rum
Rurikakesu Rum
Nine Leaves Japanese rum
Nine Leaves Rum
spirits Q&A

Keep them Coming

We enjoy your Spirits Q&A questions, so please keep on asking and we’ll keep on answering.

Kanpai!

Introducing the Resolutely Traditional Furusawa Distillery (Ep. 49)

December 25, 2022 · Leave a Comment

INTRO

In episode 49, our hosts profile Furusawa Distillery, the only distillery in Japan that has had not just one, but two female presidents. Includes a brief interview with current toji, Masako Furusawa, who is the 5th generation owner.

CREDITS

Theme Song: Begin Anywhere by Tomoko Miyata (http://tomokomiyata.net/)

Mixing and Editing: Rich Pav (https://www.uncannyrobotpodcast.com/)

HOSTS

CHRISTOPHER PELLEGRINI Vermont born and bred, long-time Tokyo resident and author of The Shochu Handbook, Christopher learned about delicious fermentations as a beer brewer at Otter Creek (Middlebury, VT). He now spends most of his waking hours convincing strangers that shochu and awamori are unlike anything they’ve ever tried before. 

STEPHEN LYMAN discovered Japan’s indigenous spirits at an izakaya in New York City. He was so enthralled that he now lives in Japan and works in a tiny craft shochu distillery every autumn. His first book, The Complete Guide to Japanese Drinks, was nominated for a 2020 James Beard Award.

Stephen and Christopher have been to more distilleries than we can remember.

If you have any comments or questions about this episode, please reach out to Stephen or Christopher via Twitter. We would love to hear from you. 

SHOW NOTES

Furusawa Distillery

Furusawa Distillery
Furusawa Distillery’s current factory, built in 1926.

In 1892, the Furusawa Sadaichi Shoten was established in Odotsu Village on the Eastern coast of Miyazaki Prefecture. This family run koji specialist fermented miso, soy sauce, mirin, vinegar, and sake as well as distilling shochu. The business was so successful they built their current facilities in 1926 and remain there today. On a spit of land between the Pacific Ocean and the Hosoda River, the ocean air and frequent typhoons play a key role in how they make their traditional honkaku shochu even today.

Things got rough during the Pacific War. The family built a concrete bunker into the distillery floor to protect their good in case of an air raid. Fortunately, the strength of the structure was never tested.

The fermentation room, cement bunker on the left.

Unfortunately, at the end of the 2nd World War when the 2nd generation president died, leaving the business to his daughter, Motoko Furusawa. To our knowledge she’s the first female toji and president in modern shochu history. She incorporated into Furusawa Distillery, Co. Ltd. and began innovating in her nearly 30 years running the company.

Upon her retirement in 1974, her husband, Norimasa, took over. He hit the ground running, creating the now iconic Issho Hanjo Tsubo brand, which is now given to new businesses in hopes of long lasting profitability.

Issho Hanjo Tsubo

But he was only just getting started. Norimasa would take the brand national as well as consolidate greatly. He stopped the production of all fermented products including sake over his 33 years as president while turning their shochu into a nationally recognized brand. Their first breakout brand, Hitoriaruki (translated “walking alone”), is still a very popular today (if you can find it).

As with Motoko’s father, her husband would also die unexpectedly. Norimasa passed away on October 17, 2007 at the height of the production season. He and Motoko’s daughter, Masako, had been training under him so she stepped in to take over and has been running the show ever since.

As the 2nd female toji at Furusawa Distillery, Masako endeavors to carry on the traditions of her family and hopes to pass this down to future generation. Her big step forward (her mother incorporating, her father taking the brand national) is to begin exporting overseas. Today a trio of shochu from Furusawa are available from Honkaku Spirits in the US.

More to Explore

If you’d like to learn more about Furusawa Distillery, please reach out to Stephen or Christopher.

Kanpai!

Weird, Unusual, Uncanny Shochu (Ep. 48)

December 6, 2022 · Leave a Comment

INTRO

In episode 48, our hosts have a little fun by jumping into the weird, unusual, or shall we even say, uncanny shochu styles that make up a sliver of the category, but make shochu such an odd spirit to categorize.

CREDITS

Intro: Theresa Matsuura of the Uncanny Japan Podcast.

Theme Song: Begin Anywhere by Tomoko Miyata (http://tomokomiyata.net/)

Mixing and Editing: Rich Pav (https://www.uncannyrobotpodcast.com/)

HOSTS

CHRISTOPHER PELLEGRINI Vermont born and bred, long-time Tokyo resident and author of The Shochu Handbook, Christopher learned about delicious fermentations as a beer brewer at Otter Creek (Middlebury, VT). He now spends most of his waking hours convincing strangers that shochu and awamori are unlike anything they’ve ever tried before. 

STEPHEN LYMAN discovered Japan’s indigenous spirits at an izakaya in New York City. He was so enthralled that he now lives in Japan and works in a tiny craft shochu distillery every autumn. His first book, The Complete Guide to Japanese Drinks, was nominated for a 2020 James Beard Award.

Stephen and Christopher enjoy going off the beaten path to discover uncanny shochu styles.

If you have any comments or questions about this episode, please reach out to Stephen or Christopher via Twitter. We would love to hear from you. 

SHOW NOTES

Uncanny Shochu

uncanny shochu
Chiran Tea Chu – a sweet potato shochu with green tea added to the fermentation.

While the most popular shochu base ingredients make up about 98% (or more) of volume, the other ingredients can be just as enjoyable if much harder to find. As we are sure you know by now, sweet potato, barley, rice, kokuto sugar, and soba (buckwheat) make up the lion’s share of the market with sake lees shochu playing a culturally important, but minor role in driving volume. While the aromatic shochu subcategory is vast, but also just a sliver of sales.

While not intended to be a comprehensive dive into all of these alternative ingredients, we do highlight a few that are worth exploring.

Milk: whole milk, skim milk, and whey powder

Tea: green tea, black tea, and matcha

Seaweed: konbu (kelp), wakame, nori, and red algae

Garden Vegetables: carrot, tomato, onion, and green pepper

Mushrooms: enoki, shiitake

Seeds/Nuts: chestnut, sesame seeds, peanuts, sunflower seeds

Herbs: silvervine, shiso, saffron

Other Oddities: cactus, aloe, water chestnut

Matatabi Shochu, which Christopher was sipping on during the episode.

Why?

Why are all of these different types of shochu legal to make? Truth is, we’re not sure. The tax office decided which were approved and distillers, farming cooperatives, and just about anyone else could apply for approval. The full list was approved and its been stated that no new ingredients will be approved, but suspect that’s only going to be true until another ingredient is approved. We personally would vote for Mizu Shochu’s Lemongrass. There’s nothing Japanese about lemongrass, but Mizu’s expression is off the charts delicious.

Serving Styles

As with any shochu, how you drink it is up to you, but generally since these uncanny shochu are vacuum distilled, they’re going to express best straight, on the rocks, or with soda. If you like to be able to taste the diluted spirit without cold, use Stephen’s twice up receipe: 50/50 filtered water and shochu. Good way to get the experience with dilution.

Milk shochu plays wonderfully with bubbles.

That said, some of the nuttier (sesame, chestnut) expressions are great with hot water and the konbu and mushroom shochu are loaded with umami – so they will also play well with hot water or as a way to add body to a cocktail. Very much look forward to getting our hands on a few bottles and doing some experiments.

More to Explore

As usual, there is so much to explore in this world of honkaku shochu. If you find anything interesting out there, please let us know.

Kanpai!

Oita 100% Barley Shochu (Ep. 47)

November 17, 2022 · Leave a Comment

INTRO

In episode 47, our hosts move beyond WTO Geographic Indications and begin exploring regional styles that do not have GI protection. Easily, the one most associated with a specific region is Oita 100% barley shochu.

CREDITS

Theme Song: Begin Anywhere by Tomoko Miyata (http://tomokomiyata.net/)

Mixing and Editing: Rich Pav (https://www.uncannyrobotpodcast.com/)

HOSTS

CHRISTOPHER PELLEGRINI Vermont born and bred, long-time Tokyo resident and author of The Shochu Handbook, Christopher learned about delicious fermentations as a beer brewer at Otter Creek (Middlebury, VT). He now spends most of his waking hours convincing strangers that shochu and awamori are unlike anything they’ve ever tried before. 

STEPHEN LYMAN discovered Japan’s indigenous spirits at an izakaya in New York City. He was so enthralled that he now lives in Japan and works in a tiny craft shochu distillery every autumn. His first book, The Complete Guide to Japanese Drinks, was nominated for a 2020 James Beard Award.

Stephen and Christopher are big fans of Oita 100% barley shochu.

If you have any comments or questions about this episode, please reach out to Stephen or Christopher via Twitter. We would love to hear from you. 

SHOW NOTES

Oita 100% Barley Shochu

Oita Prefecture is situated in the northeast corner of Kyushu Island – East of Fukuoka, North of Kumamoto, and sharing a coastal border with Miyazaki on Kyushu’s east coast. The mountainous prefecture is well known for hot springs and has begun producing a fair amount of geothermal energy as Japan continues to seek energy independence.

Oita Prefecture in Northeastern Kyushu.

Oita 100% barley shochu is a relatively recent style, having only been innovated by the Nikaido Distillery around 50 years ago when representatives from Nikaido Distillery in Oita Prefecture visited distilleries in two different prefectures. They learned barley koji making from the Yanagita Distillery in Miyakonojo, Miyazaki. Nearly simultaneously, they were introduced to the vacuum pot still at Kitaya Distillery in Yame City, Fukuoka Prefecture. By the early 1970s, Nikaido had released their vacuum distilled 100% barley shochu, which turned consumer expectations for honkaku shochu on its head.

Nikaido’s ascendance was short-lived with Sanwa Shurui, also in Oita Prefecture, releasing the iichiko brand in 1979. Within a few short years, iichiko was the best selling shochu in Japan. In fact, these light vacuum distilled 100% barley shochu brands were the first shochu brands to go national. Sanwa Shurui’s experience with blending provided them with a leg up over the competition. When they were founded in the 1950s, 4 families combined efforts and began blending their distillates.

Over the years, they perfected this to such a point that today all of their products are very carefully designed blends of more than 20 different base distillates, all 100% barley. The base distillates vary on yeast, koji, fermentation temperature, fermentation time, still design, and maturation methods.

Oita 100% Barley Shochu Styles

Oita 100% Barley Shochu can probably be broken down into three primary styles. The most common is vacuum distilled using white barley koji for fermentation. Another popular style would be that same distillate, but aged in oak. Mush less common, the 3rd style would be traditional atmospheric distillates, which are full of grain, nut, and other rich flavors. In contrast with Iki Shochu, atmospheric distillation is much less common and the 100% barley shochu tends to be much more linear in its expression.

Select Oita Shochu Brands

Nikaido – the first Oita shochu to make a national splash in Japan is the iconic Nikaido brand in their brown bottles with orange labels. Vacuum distilled. Very easy drinking.

Nikaido 25% ABV 100% Barley Shochu.

iichiko – While Sanwa Shurui sells dozens of brands of shochu, iichiko is their main line and most of their sub-brands include “iichiko” in their branding. This blended 100% barley shochu remains Japan’s best selling barley shochu more than 40 years after release.

Oita 100% Barley Shochu
iichiko offers a wide range of expressions.

Taimei – a 100% handmade 100% barley shochu. Atmospheric distilled. Lush, rich, wonderful with hot water.

Taimai handmade 100% barley shochu.

Kanehachi – probably the most famous barley shochu from Oita if we are judging fame by shelf price and rarity rather than sales volume. If you can find Kanehachi, you’ll be paying prices similar to the legendary 3 M’s of Satsuma Shochu. Rich, roasty aromas. Gorgeous.

Moriya – this brand takes premium shochu in a different direction than Kanehachi or Taimei. Made with nadeshiko flower yeast, 50% polished barley, and vacuum distillation, Moriya is a bright, beautiful expression. It’s available on ANA Business Class by the glass.

Moriya 100% Barley Shochu.

More to Explore

This really scratches the surface for 100% barley shochu. While Oita makes more than anyone and very little else, other northern Kyushu Prefectures also make the style, particularly neighboring Fukuoka.

Kanpai!

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