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Classic Japanese Whisky Service Styles (ep. 22)

September 27, 2021 · Leave a Comment

EPISODE INTRO

In the 22nd episode of the Japan Distilled podcast, your hosts Christopher Pellegrini and Stephen Lyman explore Japanese whisky service styles. While many whisky lovers prefer their dram straight, Japan has a long history of whisky dilution. In fact, many premium Japanese whiskies are crafted with dilution in mind.

CREDITS

Theme Song: Begin Anywhere by Tomoko Miyata (http://tomokomiyata.net/)

Mixing and Editing: Rich Pav (https://www.uncannyjapan.com/)

HOSTS

CHRISTOPHER PELLEGRINI Vermont born and bred, long-time Tokyo resident and author of The Shochu Handbook, Christopher learned about delicious fermentations as a beer brewer at Otter Creek (Middlebury, VT). He now spends most of his waking hours convincing strangers that shochu and awamori are unlike anything they’ve ever tried before. 

STEPHEN LYMAN discovered Japan’s indigenous spirits at an izakaya in New York City. He was so enthralled that he now lives in Japan and works in a tiny craft shochu distillery every autumn. His first book, The Complete Guide to Japanese Drinks, was nominated for a 2020 James Beard Award.

Stephen and Christopher often play with both dilution and temperature regardless of the spirit.

If you have any comments or questions about this episode of Japan Distilled, please reach out to Stephen or Christopher via Twitter. We would love to hear from you. 

SHOW NOTES

Japanese Whisky Service Styles

These days most whisky enthusiasts insist on sipping their spirits straight, perhaps with a tiny splash of water to open things up. In Japan, at least traditionally, whisky service has been much, much different.

While whisky dilution may have been popular in Japan before the advent of the Tory’s Bars, the Tory’s Bars made sure it was the preferred way to drink whisky by the 1960s. With taxes on domestic whisky far lower than on beer, a heavily diluted whisky (down to a beer proof) proved to be a winning business idea with more than 1,000 Tory’s Bars dotting Japan in their heyday. And yes, Tory’s came from Suntory and their whisky was served exclusively.

A Tory’s Bar, which was a whisky pub replacing beer with diluted whisky.

Straight/Neat

We include this, because this is how purists will claim premium whisky should be enjoyed. And yes, it can be an absolutely lovely drink. However, with higher proof whiskies (e.g., barrel proof), dropping the ABV with some water dilution is probably only going to improve your experience.

Highball

The absolute king of Japanese whisky service these days is the highball. Usually 3-4 parts soda to 1 part whisky over ice. Sometimes a lemon twist can be added.

Stephen’s favorite highball is a Hakushu Highball.

To get a better idea on how to make one please listen to the episode or read this classic article in which Stephen was interviewed.

Of course, if you want the opposite of a hand crafted whisky highball, Suntory has introduced the highball machine to American bars. This is perhaps even easier to serve than pouring a draft beer.

Suntory Highball Machine in Milwaukee, WI.

Half Up

Scotch and Soda is a thing for a reason. In Japan a whisky and soda is called a Half Up. It’s a pretty simple drink. half soda, half whisky over ice. With less soda, you are getting a more boozy version of the highball. Some whiskies work better this way so its all about finding how you’ll enjoy it best.

Twice Up

The Twice Up may be the best option of all of these Japanese whisky service styles for the whisky purist. Whisky professionals (those who make whisky) will often evaluate their whisky cut 50:50 with water. This is exactly how you make a Twice Up – half whisky, half water, no ice. Without the ice dilution or the chill, you can taste the whisky more clearly. Dilute a 50% ABV whisky down by 50% and you have a 25% ABV tipple.

Japanese whisky service styles
Showing his dedication, Stephen made a Twice Up with the premium Komagatake Limited Edition 2020 (it was delicious).

Explore

As we usually say on the podcast, if you like it, drink it. We can add to that – drink it how you like it. Try different whiskies in different ways. You may just find you prefer one of these Japanese whisky service styles more than you expected.

KANPAI!

Hot Shochu in Japan (ep 21)

September 13, 2021 · Leave a Comment

EPISODE INTRO

In the 21st episode of the Japan Distilled podcast, your hosts Christopher Pellegrini and Stephen Lyman explore hot shochu (read “warm”) service styles for the traditional Japanese spirits of honkaku shochu and ryukyu awamori. While other styles exist these days, (listen to episode 20 on cold shochu styles) shochu served warm is probably most traditional.

CREDITS

Theme Song: Begin Anywhere by Tomoko Miyata (http://tomokomiyata.net/)

Mixing and Editing: Rich Pav (https://www.uncannyjapan.com/)

HOSTS

CHRISTOPHER PELLEGRINI Vermont born and bred, long-time Tokyo resident and author of The Shochu Handbook, Christopher learned about delicious fermentations as a beer brewer at Otter Creek (Middlebury, VT). He now spends most of his waking hours convincing strangers that shochu and awamori are unlike anything they’ve ever tried before. 

STEPHEN LYMAN discovered Japan’s indigenous spirits at an izakaya in New York City. He was so enthralled that he now lives in Japan and works in a tiny craft shochu distillery every autumn. His first book, The Complete Guide to Japanese Drinks, was nominated for a 2020 James Beard Award.

Stephen and Christopher do not always agree on how best to enjoy these drinks.

If you have any comments or questions about this episode of Japan Distilled, please reach out to Stephen or Christopher via Twitter. We would love to hear from you. 

SHOW NOTES

Warm Service Styles

Traditional honkaku shochu had traditionally been served warm, probably due to the common practice of boiling water for safety added to the common belief among Japanese that warm drinks are better for you health. This week we dive into these hot shochu styles.

Oyuwari

The most common hot shochu service is oyuwari (oyu = hot water, wari = cut) in which you pour shochu or awamori over hot water usually in a 4:6 to 6:4 ratio for a 25% ABV shochu or awamori. It gets a bit technical to do it correctly and as Christopher is fond of saying, each shochu will express better at different temperatures. Playing around with this is part of the fun.

hot shochu
Gently pour shochu into hot water to release aromas.

Christopher’s recipe for oyuwari is this.

  1. Heat water to approximately 70° Celsius (Christopher has lived in Japan for nearly 20 years so despite being American, he has adopted the Celsius system), which is 158° Fahrenheit.
  2. Pour water into a ceramic vessel to your desired level. The water going into the vessel should be 62-68° C (144-154° F).
  3. Slowly pour shochu into the water to your desired level. The target temperature when this is finished should be 45° C (113° F).

Remember, alcohol boils at 173° F (78° C) so you definitely do not want to pour the shochu into water hotter than that. In Christopher’s experience, temperatures between 68-78° C (154-173° F) may still scald other compounds in the spirit, reducing flavor and aroma enjoyment.

A strategy to keep your ceramic vessel warm longer is to pre-warm the cup. This is most easily done by pouring in hot water, letting it cool, and then dumping that water out before making your drink.

The most common mistake made by izakaya even in Japan is using the same heat level used to make tea to make oyuwari shochu. Green tea is most often made with water temperatures of about 80° C (176° F), which is above alcohol’s boiling point. They may not only be ruining the flavors, but even burning off some of your potential buzz.

Maewari

maewari is most often served in a kuro joka (black kettle).

In Japanese “mae” means before and “wari” means cut so maewari shochu or awamori is cut before service, usually 24 hours to 1 week prior. Izakaya that take their maewari program seriously will have large storage pots that are filled beforehand with water and shochu (usually 5:5). These shops will often provide you with a small burner and fill a kuro joka (black ceramic kettle) with your preferred maewari shochu, which you can serve yourself. If you would prefer the maewari shochu over ice, you should make that clear.

Sweet potato (left) and barley (right) maewari pots.

Atsukan

Shochu or awamori can also be served after being heated directly as is done in a sake style. Again, be careful not to burn the spirit. 55-60° C (131-140° F) should be plenty warm enough. This is uncommon, but some older men still drink it this way since 25% ABV is a relatively recent phenomenon and they used to cut their 35% spirit down to about 25% back in the day.

Atsukan is generally served in small cups.

Kan Roku

This is an extremely uncommon hot shochu service style, but it can be absolutely lovely. This is Stephen’s preferred style when he has the time and patience, because it takes a bit of work. Make your atsukan shochu as described above and then pour that over a big ball of ice. The heat brings out the sweetness while the chill of the ice with the hot shochu gives you a really lovely mouthfeel.

  • Heat the shochu.
  • Pour over ice.
This traditional Kumamoto style is most often served in the small white kettle pictures on the left. Helpfully, the flowers turn from purple to red when the temperature is correct for service.

Drink in Good Health

Generally, shochu and awamori can be consumed in a wide variety of ways, though the play with temperature and dilution of shochu is much more diverse than with awamori. Whether you like cool shochu or hot shochu, there is plenty of enjoyment to be had exploring the different service styles.

KANPAI!

Cool Shochu in Japan (Ep. 20)

August 30, 2021 · 2 Comments

EPISODE INTRO

In the 20th episode of the Japan Distilled podcast, your hosts Christopher Pellegrini and Stephen Lyman explore cool shochu (read “cold”) service styles for the traditional Japanese spirits of honkaku shochu and ryukyu awamori. While other styles exist these days, cool shochu service is most common throughout most of Japan.

CREDITS

Theme Song: Begin Anywhere by Tomoko Miyata (http://tomokomiyata.net/)

Mixing and Editing: Rich Pav (https://www.uncannyjapan.com/)

HOSTS

CHRISTOPHER PELLEGRINI Vermont born and bred, long-time Tokyo resident and author of The Shochu Handbook, Christopher learned about delicious fermentations as a beer brewer at Otter Creek (Middlebury, VT). He now spends most of his waking hours convincing strangers that shochu and awamori are unlike anything they’ve ever tried before. 

STEPHEN LYMAN discovered Japan’s indigenous spirits at an izakaya in New York City. He was so enthralled that he now lives in Japan and works in a tiny craft shochu distillery every autumn. His first book, The Complete Guide to Japanese Drinks, was nominated for a 2020 James Beard Award.

Stephen and Christopher do not always agree on how best to enjoy these drinks.

If you have any comments or questions about this episode of Japan Distilled, please reach out to Stephen or Christopher via Twitter. We would love to hear from you. 

SHOW NOTES

Cold Service Styles

cool shochu
Shochu on the Rocks

While traditional honkaku shochu was often served diluted with hot water, that’s the next episode. This week we tackle cool shochu service styles, which are now predominant both in Japan and overseas when it comes to both shochu and awamori

On the Rocks

The simplest cool shochu service, simply pour shochu over ice in a rocks glass. Give it a few stirs to begin the dilution and you are good to go. If you want less melt, start with a chilled glass, chilled shochu, and/or a large single ball of ice. This way takes more preparation and time, but will stay cool longer with less dilution.

Mizuwari

In Japanese “mizu” means water and “wari” means cut so mizuwari shochu or awamori is simply cut with cold water, usually over ice as well. This is the most common service style in most of Japan. In fact, you can get a “mizuwari” set when you order a bottle of shochu, which will come with a bucket of ice, pitcher of cold water, glassware, and a swizzle stick.

Sodawari

This one should be easy. Cut with soda, again usually with ice. Be sure not to stir too much or you’ll lose the bubbles, which would be sad. Sodawari sets can also be had with bottle service in Japan, but expect to pay extra for the sparkling water.

Chilled

While this is generally uncommon, there are two styles that are often served chilled. Very low proof shochu (around 5-15% ABV) has begun to appear on the market and those are often designed to be served chilled like a white wine. Alternatively, hanatare, the head’s of a distillation run, are so pungent that chilling the bottle and pouring if over a big ball of ice serves to make it more palatable. In fact, hanater is best kept in the freezer where the spirit become viscous, which makes for a fun service experience.

Bachiwari

Bachiwari Service at Aburiya Kinnosuke

Not a common service style, but it had a moment in NYC a few years ago when Aburiya Kinnosuke made this a service style option. Take a punch bowl, fill it with ice, pour in a bottle of shochu, toss in some citrus rounds or other fruits or aromatics, and voila, you have a shochu punch bowl for communal service. A great way to hang out with friends!

KANPAI!

Japanese Vodka (Ep 19)

August 17, 2021 · Leave a Comment

EPISODE INTRO

In the 19th episode of the Japan Distilled podcast, your hosts Christopher Pellegrini and Stephen Lyman make brief mention of Japanese vodka.

CREDITS

Theme Song: Begin Anywhere by Tomoko Miyata (http://tomokomiyata.net/)

Mixing and Editing: Rich Pav (https://www.uncannyjapan.com/)

HOSTS

CHRISTOPHER PELLEGRINI Vermont born and bred, long-time Tokyo resident and author of The Shochu Handbook, Christopher learned about delicious fermentations as a beer brewer at Otter Creek (Middlebury, VT). He now spends most of his waking hours convincing strangers that shochu and awamori are unlike anything they’ve ever tried before. 

STEPHEN LYMAN discovered Japan’s indigenous spirits at an izakaya in New York City. He was so enthralled that he now lives in Japan and works in a tiny craft shochu distillery every autumn. His first book, The Complete Guide to Japanese Drinks, was nominated for a 2020 James Beard Award.

Stephen and Christopher spend far too much time seeking out uncommon shochu styles.

If you have any comments or questions about this episode of Japan Distilled, please reach out to Stephen or Christopher via Twitter. We would love to hear from you. 

SHOW NOTES

Friends don’t let friends drink vodka except when enjoying Russian or Slavic food and friends and culture. When exploring Japanese spirits, please explore spirits other than Japanese vodka.

Kanpai!

The Beauty of Aromatic Shochu (Ep 18)

August 2, 2021 · Leave a Comment

EPISODE INTRO

In the 18th episode of the Japan Distilled podcast, your hosts Christopher Pellegrini and Stephen Lyman turn their noses into the wonderful style that they’ve taken to calling aromatic shochu.

CREDITS

Theme Song: Begin Anywhere by Tomoko Miyata (http://tomokomiyata.net/)

Mixing and Editing: Rich Pav (https://www.uncannyjapan.com/)

HOSTS

CHRISTOPHER PELLEGRINI Vermont born and bred, long-time Tokyo resident and author of The Shochu Handbook, Christopher learned about delicious fermentations as a beer brewer at Otter Creek (Middlebury, VT). He now spends most of his waking hours convincing strangers that shochu and awamori are unlike anything they’ve ever tried before. 

STEPHEN LYMAN discovered Japan’s indigenous spirits at an izakaya in New York City. He was so enthralled that he now lives in Japan and works in a tiny craft shochu distillery every autumn. His first book, The Complete Guide to Japanese Drinks, was nominated for a 2020 James Beard Award.

Stephen and Christopher spend far too much time seeking out uncommon shochu styles.

If you have any comments or questions about this episode of Japan Distilled, please reach out to Stephen or Christopher via Twitter. We would love to hear from you. 

SHOW NOTES

Approved Aromatics

Honkaku shochu can be a confusing spirits category due to the wide breadth of ingredients that it can be made from. Unlike, for example, mezcal, which must be made with agave, authentic shochu can be made from over 50 different ingredients and that is a gross oversimplification since there are approximately 50 different potatoes that can be used as well as over 100 different rice varieties.

As we learned in previous episodes, sweet potato, barley, and rice are the most popular ingredients, comprising of between 90% and 95% of domestic sales by volume. Two other styles, kokuto sugar and soba (buckwheat) make up a lion’s share of the remaining sales volume. Everything else comprises about 1% of annual sales. That includes sake lees shochu and what we have taken to calling aromatic shochu. While some of the ingredients we consider aromatics will contribute starches or sugars to the fermentation and will raise the total alcohol production, they are primarily used for their flavor and aroma characteristics.

Without further ado, here is a complete list of the approved ingredients:

cereal grains (e.g., rice, barley, buckwheat)

tubers (e.g., sweet potatoes, potatoes)

kokuto sugar

sake lees

acorn

adzuki bean

aloe

arrowroot

ashitaba

bamboo fronds

butterbur sprout

cactus

carrots

chestnut

enoki mushrooms

gingko nuts

ginseng (multiple species)

green peas

green pepper

green tea

kelp (konbu)

leeks

lily bulbs

lotus root

matcha tea

milk

mugwort

onions

oolong tea

palm dates

peanuts

plum pits

pumpkin (kabocha)

radish

red algae (tsunomata and tsurutsuru)

safflower

saffron

seaweed

sesame seeds

shiso

shitake mushrooms

silvervine (matatabi)

skim milk

sunflower seeds

tomato

wakame seaweed

water chestnuts

water hyacinth

whey powder

No other ingredients can be used to make authentic honkaku shochu and at least for now, no more ingredients will be approved. We suspect that will be the case until there is a demand for a new ingredient. Ginger, perhaps?

Aromatic Shochu

These aromatic shochu are most often made with a rice or barley koji fermentation with more rice and/or barley added to the main fermentation. At some point during the main fermentation, the aromatic ingredient is added. This may be done from the start of the main fermentation or just a day or two before distillation depending on what aromatic profile the master brewer-distiller is hoping to achieve.

These aromatic shochu are nearly always vacuum distilled to preserve the light aromas and mute the grainy expression of the rice or barley.

What is never done is adding the aromatic to the distilled spirit. That is strictly prohibited.

AROMATIC SHOCHU MENTIONED ON THE EPISODE

BENIOTOME

Perhaps the most popular aromatic shochu overseas, Beniotome sesame shochu has a telltale roasted sesame aroma. Sweet and rich. Almost like dessert.

MIZU GREEN TEA AND MIZU LEMONGRASS

Made by Munemasa Distillery in Saga Prefecture, these aromatic expressions are simply brilliant. The lemongrass, while not an approved ingredient, is lovely and the green tea is exactly what a green tea shochu should be. Made with Ureshino Green Tea.

Mizu Green Tea (green), Lemongrass (yellow) and Barley (black) – available through Skurnik Wines.

RIHEI GINGER SHOCHU

Another non-approved expression, Rihei is a ginger shochu made by Ochiai in Miyazaki Prefecture. At 38% ABV, its clearly designed for cocktails.

Rihei

MATATABI

Silvervine (matatabi) is a relative of catnip. This vacuum distilled expression is bright and expressive and very much like a light digestif, but without any added sugars.

CHIRAN TEA CHU

A wild one. Made with both local sweet potatoes and local green tea, Chiran Tea Chu is an extremely flavorful aromatic shochu.

Makiba no Yume

A premium rice shochu with a twist – milk. Makiba no Yume carries a nice lactic finish and is beautiful with bubbles.

DABADA

Chestnut shochu is primarily made on the island of Shikoku, just to the northeast of Kyushu. This is a very popular brand in Japan and can sometimes be found overseas.

dababa aromatic shochu

Do you have a favorite aromatic shochu not mentioned on the show? Please let us know!

Kanpai!

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