Podcast

EPISODE INTRO

In the 24th episode of the Japan Distilled podcast, your hosts Christopher Pellegrini and Stephen Lyman take a deep dive into shimazake (island spirits), which refers to those shochu and awamori not made on one of the 4 main islands of Japan. At least that’s our working definition.

CREDITS

Theme Song: Begin Anywhere by Tomoko Miyata (http://tomokomiyata.net/)

Mixing and Editing: Rich Pav (https://www.uncannyjapan.com/)

HOSTS

CHRISTOPHER PELLEGRINI Vermont born and bred, long-time Tokyo resident and author of The Shochu Handbook, Christopher learned about delicious fermentations as a beer brewer at Otter Creek (Middlebury, VT). He now spends most of his waking hours convincing strangers that shochu and awamori are unlike anything they’ve ever tried before. 

STEPHEN LYMAN discovered Japan’s indigenous spirits at an izakaya in New York City. He was so enthralled that he now lives in Japan and works in a tiny craft shochu distillery every autumn. His first book, The Complete Guide to Japanese Drinks, was nominated for a 2020 James Beard Award.

Stephen and Christopher particularly enjoy spirits made in places that are hard to get to.

If you have any comments or questions about this episode of Japan Distilled, please reach out to Stephen or Christopher via Twitter. We would love to hear from you. 

SHOW NOTES

What is Shimazake?

Shimazake (島酒) is literally “island alcohol” with shima (島) meaning “island” and zake (酒) meaning alcohol. In Japan this almost always refers to distilled spirits made on remote islands across the archipelago. Please tune into episode 1 for a pronunciation guide explaining the rules for connected speech that turn sake into zake in Japanese.

Japan is comprised of 6,842 islands of which 421 are inhabited. The 4 main islands, Hokkaido, Honshu, Shikoku, and Kyushu make up the Japanese “mainland” along with quite a few smaller islands connected by bridges or tunnels. The other inhabited islands would be the ones where shimazake might be made.

Okinawan Awamori

Okinawan awamori is rightfully all shimazake since Okinawa is the only prefecture in Japan located entirely outside one of the 4 main islands. With 47 distilleries making 100% rice koji distillate, their Shimazake Festa is a great time every spring.

Hanazake

Hanazake (flower sake 花酒) refers to the very high proof awamori made exclusively on Yonaguni Island, the furthest southwestern island in Okinawa. This island is closer to Taiwan than the next closest Okinawan island. Their 60% hanzake is some of the highest proof spirit available in Japan.

Amami Shochu

Often referred to simply as shimazake in the Amami islands, kokuto sugar shochu is a unique style owing to the traditions of sugar based agriculture on the islands. Situated between the southern tip of Kyushu and Okinawa, the Amami Islands are part of Kagoshima Prefecture. There are 28 active distilleries in the area with 18 different product lines (the 10 smallest distilleries cooperate to blend).

Tokyo Shochu

The remote islands that are technically part of Tokyo make some of the most unique shimazake in Japan. They often use barley koji even with sweet potato shochu fermentations. In Aogashima they even grow koji naturally by covering steamed barley with taniwatari leaves.

Iki Shochu

Iki island is the birthplace of barley shochu. With just 7 distilleries on the island, its a small but important place in shochu history. Iki shochu is alays made with a rice koji primary fermentation and steamed barley is added in the main fermentation.

Outlying Islands Around Kyushu

Several outlying islands around southern Kyushu make fantastic shochu, particularly in Kagoshima Prefecture. Yakushima, which is a world heritage site that inspired the scenery for the anime Princess Mononoke only has 2 distilleries, but they both make lovely spirits. Tanegashima is the launching pad for the Japanese space program and they also make nice shimazake. Finally, the Koshiki Islands are also home to 2 distilleries that make some of Stephen’s favorite shochu.

Japanese Rum

Nearly all Japanese rum qualifies as shimazake and some of the most remote distilleries in Japan make rum such as Grace Distillery in Okinawa and Ogasawara Distillery in the Bonin Islands.

Much More to Explore

This episode just scratches the surface of shimazake in Japan. We plan to do an episode on each of these islands in the future. Until then see what you can find near you.

KANPAI!

EPISODE INTRO

In the 23rd episode of the Japan Distilled podcast, your hosts Christopher Pellegrini and Stephen Lyman explore American shochu (made in the United States). American shochu is in its infancy, but there is a lot of creativity and experimentation.

CREDITS

Theme Song: Begin Anywhere by Tomoko Miyata (http://tomokomiyata.net/)

Mixing and Editing: Rich Pav (https://www.uncannyjapan.com/)

HOSTS

CHRISTOPHER PELLEGRINI Vermont born and bred, long-time Tokyo resident and author of The Shochu Handbook, Christopher learned about delicious fermentations as a beer brewer at Otter Creek (Middlebury, VT). He now spends most of his waking hours convincing strangers that shochu and awamori are unlike anything they’ve ever tried before. 

STEPHEN LYMAN discovered Japan’s indigenous spirits at an izakaya in New York City. He was so enthralled that he now lives in Japan and works in a tiny craft shochu distillery every autumn. His first book, The Complete Guide to Japanese Drinks, was nominated for a 2020 James Beard Award.

Stephen and Christopher enjoy excellent spirits no matter where they are made, but as Americans living in Japan, American shochu is particularly intriguing.

If you have any comments or questions about this episode of Japan Distilled, please reach out to Stephen or Christopher via Twitter. We would love to hear from you. 

SHOW NOTES

Is Shochu Shochu if Made in Another Country?

Of course it is. There may be some question whether it can be classified as honkaku, or authentic, shochu, but there is no question that a koji fermented spirits made from an approved ingredient and distilled once in a pot still is a shochu.

We are more closely aware of shochu made in the US, but we have caught wind of shochu being made elsewhere. If you have additional information about these new foreign shochu companies, please let us know!

Sodo Spirits

As early as 2009, KC Sheehan at Sodo Spirits was making barley shochu in the Sodo neighborhood of Seattle, Washington. Their Even Star shochu line was an interesting mix of aromatic shochu unrepentantly designed as a cocktail play. Their primary brand was made with rosemary, but they also had ginger, mint, and chili pepper brands. All were made by adding the aromatic to the fermentation shortly before distillation so they were rightly authentic shochu. Sadly, they closed around 2016, but they can rightly be thought of as the O.G.

St. George Spirits

The most established distillery making shochu is St. George in Alameda, California where their master distliller Lance Winters has made a hybrid sake lees shochu by refermenting Calrose rice sake lees from a local sake brewery and blending with GMO free neutral spirit before single pot distillation in one of their beautiful copper pot stills. California Shochu was inspired by the extremely popular Ramen Shop in neighboring Oakland. Lance also designed the label for this striking package.

Hawaiian Shochu Company

The most authentic American shochu is made by a Japanese couple on the north coast of Oahu in Hawaii. Ken Hirata was a distillery worker at the fabled Manzen Distillery in Kirishima, Kagoshima before moving to Hawaii to set up the Hawaiian Shochu Company. Everything is made by hand in a distillery that is set up almost identically to Manzen.

Their main brand, Namihana, is released a couple times of year and is available almost exclusively through the distillery.

American Shochu Company

Taka Amano and his wife Lynne established the American Shochu Company in Frederick, Maryland with the goal of bridging American and Japanese cultures. Their Umai brand of 100% barley shochu has been a hit locally in Maryland and is now finding its way into other markets. Their 40% Roy’s Demon expression has been very well received and has fascinating packaging. They’ve created an expressive American shochu that should bridge our cultures for those lucky enough to find their bottles.

Horyzon Spirits

The latest entry to the American shochu scene is Horyzon, a rice shochu made from domestic American rice. This brand made in a craft distillery in Georgia is 40% ABV and is an incredible first effort from these enthusiastic young distillers. We see bright things ahead for them as they launch their flagship product, Horyzon Harvest Select. And in true Japanese fashion, they are too humble to put “shochu” on the label so they have decided to call their product an “American rice koji spirit.” We approve!

More to Explore?

To learn more about these American shochu brands and others we mention on the podcast, please have a listen. Also, if you know of others, please let us know!

KANPAI!

EPISODE INTRO

In the 22nd episode of the Japan Distilled podcast, your hosts Christopher Pellegrini and Stephen Lyman explore Japanese whisky service styles. While many whisky lovers prefer their dram straight, Japan has a long history of whisky dilution. In fact, many premium Japanese whiskies are crafted with dilution in mind.

CREDITS

Theme Song: Begin Anywhere by Tomoko Miyata (http://tomokomiyata.net/)

Mixing and Editing: Rich Pav (https://www.uncannyjapan.com/)

HOSTS

CHRISTOPHER PELLEGRINI Vermont born and bred, long-time Tokyo resident and author of The Shochu Handbook, Christopher learned about delicious fermentations as a beer brewer at Otter Creek (Middlebury, VT). He now spends most of his waking hours convincing strangers that shochu and awamori are unlike anything they’ve ever tried before. 

STEPHEN LYMAN discovered Japan’s indigenous spirits at an izakaya in New York City. He was so enthralled that he now lives in Japan and works in a tiny craft shochu distillery every autumn. His first book, The Complete Guide to Japanese Drinks, was nominated for a 2020 James Beard Award.

Stephen and Christopher often play with both dilution and temperature regardless of the spirit.

If you have any comments or questions about this episode of Japan Distilled, please reach out to Stephen or Christopher via Twitter. We would love to hear from you. 

SHOW NOTES

Japanese Whisky Service Styles

These days most whisky enthusiasts insist on sipping their spirits straight, perhaps with a tiny splash of water to open things up. In Japan, at least traditionally, whisky service has been much, much different.

While whisky dilution may have been popular in Japan before the advent of the Tory’s Bars, the Tory’s Bars made sure it was the preferred way to drink whisky by the 1960s. With taxes on domestic whisky far lower than on beer, a heavily diluted whisky (down to a beer proof) proved to be a winning business idea with more than 1,000 Tory’s Bars dotting Japan in their heyday. And yes, Tory’s came from Suntory and their whisky was served exclusively.

Straight/Neat

We include this, because this is how purists will claim premium whisky should be enjoyed. And yes, it can be an absolutely lovely drink. However, with higher proof whiskies (e.g., barrel proof), dropping the ABV with some water dilution is probably only going to improve your experience.

Highball

The absolute king of Japanese whisky service these days is the highball. Usually 3-4 parts soda to 1 part whisky over ice. Sometimes a lemon twist can be added.

To get a better idea on how to make one please listen to the episode or read this classic article in which Stephen was interviewed.

Of course, if you want the opposite of a hand crafted whisky highball, Suntory has introduced the highball machine to American bars. This is perhaps even easier to serve than pouring a draft beer.

Half Up

Scotch and Soda is a thing for a reason. In Japan a whisky and soda is called a Half Up. It’s a pretty simple drink. half soda, half whisky over ice. With less soda, you are getting a more boozy version of the highball. Some whiskies work better this way so its all about finding how you’ll enjoy it best.

Twice Up

The Twice Up may be the best option of all of these Japanese whisky service styles for the whisky purist. Whisky professionals (those who make whisky) will often evaluate their whisky cut 50:50 with water. This is exactly how you make a Twice Up – half whisky, half water, no ice. Without the ice dilution or the chill, you can taste the whisky more clearly. Dilute a 50% ABV whisky down by 50% and you have a 25% ABV tipple.

Explore

As we usually say on the podcast, if you like it, drink it. We can add to that – drink it how you like it. Try different whiskies in different ways. You may just find you prefer one of these Japanese whisky service styles more than you expected.

KANPAI!

EPISODE INTRO

In the 21st episode of the Japan Distilled podcast, your hosts Christopher Pellegrini and Stephen Lyman explore hot shochu (read “warm”) service styles for the traditional Japanese spirits of honkaku shochu and ryukyu awamori. While other styles exist these days, (listen to episode 20 on cold shochu styles) shochu served warm is probably most traditional.

CREDITS

Theme Song: Begin Anywhere by Tomoko Miyata (http://tomokomiyata.net/)

Mixing and Editing: Rich Pav (https://www.uncannyjapan.com/)

HOSTS

CHRISTOPHER PELLEGRINI Vermont born and bred, long-time Tokyo resident and author of The Shochu Handbook, Christopher learned about delicious fermentations as a beer brewer at Otter Creek (Middlebury, VT). He now spends most of his waking hours convincing strangers that shochu and awamori are unlike anything they’ve ever tried before. 

STEPHEN LYMAN discovered Japan’s indigenous spirits at an izakaya in New York City. He was so enthralled that he now lives in Japan and works in a tiny craft shochu distillery every autumn. His first book, The Complete Guide to Japanese Drinks, was nominated for a 2020 James Beard Award.

Stephen and Christopher do not always agree on how best to enjoy these drinks.

If you have any comments or questions about this episode of Japan Distilled, please reach out to Stephen or Christopher via Twitter. We would love to hear from you. 

SHOW NOTES

Warm Service Styles

Traditional honkaku shochu had traditionally been served warm, probably due to the common practice of boiling water for safety added to the common belief among Japanese that warm drinks are better for you health. This week we dive into these hot shochu styles.

Oyuwari

The most common hot shochu service is oyuwari (oyu = hot water, wari = cut) in which you pour shochu or awamori over hot water usually in a 4:6 to 6:4 ratio for a 25% ABV shochu or awamori. It gets a bit technical to do it correctly and as Christopher is fond of saying, each shochu will express better at different temperatures. Playing around with this is part of the fun.

Christopher’s recipe for oyuwari is this.

1. Heat water to approximately 70° Celsius (Christopher has lived in Japan for nearly 20 years so despite being American, he has adopted the Celsius system), which is 158° Fahrenheit.
2. Pour water into a ceramic vessel to your desired level. The water going into the vessel should be 62-68° C (144-154° F).
3. Slowly pour shochu into the water to your desired level. The target temperature when this is finished should be 45° C (113° F).

Remember, alcohol boils at 173° F (78° C) so you definitely do not want to pour the shochu into water hotter than that. In Christopher’s experience, temperatures between 68-78° C (154-173° F) may still scald other compounds in the spirit, reducing flavor and aroma enjoyment.

A strategy to keep your ceramic vessel warm longer is to pre-warm the cup. This is most easily done by pouring in hot water, letting it cool, and then dumping that water out before making your drink.

The most common mistake made by izakaya even in Japan is using the same heat level used to make tea to make oyuwari shochu. Green tea is most often made with water temperatures of about 80° C (176° F), which is above alcohol’s boiling point. They may not only be ruining the flavors, but even burning off some of your potential buzz.

Maewari

In Japanese “mae” means before and “wari” means cut so maewari shochu or awamori is cut before service, usually 24 hours to 1 week prior. Izakaya that take their maewari program seriously will have large storage pots that are filled beforehand with water and shochu (usually 5:5). These shops will often provide you with a small burner and fill a kuro joka (black ceramic kettle) with your preferred maewari shochu, which you can serve yourself. If you would prefer the maewari shochu over ice, you should make that clear.

Atsukan

Shochu or awamori can also be served after being heated directly as is done in a sake style. Again, be careful not to burn the spirit. 55-60° C (131-140° F) should be plenty warm enough. This is uncommon, but some older men still drink it this way since 25% ABV is a relatively recent phenomenon and they used to cut their 35% spirit down to about 25% back in the day.

Kan Roku

This is an extremely uncommon hot shochu service style, but it can be absolutely lovely. This is Stephen’s preferred style when he has the time and patience, because it takes a bit of work. Make your atsukan shochu as described above and then pour that over a big ball of ice. The heat brings out the sweetness while the chill of the ice with the hot shochu gives you a really lovely mouthfeel.

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Drink in Good Health

Generally, shochu and awamori can be consumed in a wide variety of ways, though the play with temperature and dilution of shochu is much more diverse than with awamori. Whether you like cool shochu or hot shochu, there is plenty of enjoyment to be had exploring the different service styles.

KANPAI!

EPISODE INTRO

In the 20th episode of the Japan Distilled podcast, your hosts Christopher Pellegrini and Stephen Lyman explore cool shochu (read “cold”) service styles for the traditional Japanese spirits of honkaku shochu and ryukyu awamori. While other styles exist these days, cool shochu service is most common throughout most of Japan.

CREDITS

Theme Song: Begin Anywhere by Tomoko Miyata (http://tomokomiyata.net/)

Mixing and Editing: Rich Pav (https://www.uncannyjapan.com/)

HOSTS

CHRISTOPHER PELLEGRINI Vermont born and bred, long-time Tokyo resident and author of The Shochu Handbook, Christopher learned about delicious fermentations as a beer brewer at Otter Creek (Middlebury, VT). He now spends most of his waking hours convincing strangers that shochu and awamori are unlike anything they’ve ever tried before. 

STEPHEN LYMAN discovered Japan’s indigenous spirits at an izakaya in New York City. He was so enthralled that he now lives in Japan and works in a tiny craft shochu distillery every autumn. His first book, The Complete Guide to Japanese Drinks, was nominated for a 2020 James Beard Award.

Stephen and Christopher do not always agree on how best to enjoy these drinks.

If you have any comments or questions about this episode of Japan Distilled, please reach out to Stephen or Christopher via Twitter. We would love to hear from you. 

SHOW NOTES

Cold Service Styles

While traditional honkaku shochu was often served diluted with hot water, that’s the next episode. This week we tackle cool shochu service styles, which are now predominant both in Japan and overseas when it comes to both shochu and awamori

On the Rocks

The simplest cool shochu service, simply pour shochu over ice in a rocks glass. Give it a few stirs to begin the dilution and you are good to go. If you want less melt, start with a chilled glass, chilled shochu, and/or a large single ball of ice. This way takes more preparation and time, but will stay cool longer with less dilution.

Mizuwari

In Japanese “mizu” means water and “wari” means cut so mizuwari shochu or awamori is simply cut with cold water, usually over ice as well. This is the most common service style in most of Japan. In fact, you can get a “mizuwari” set when you order a bottle of shochu, which will come with a bucket of ice, pitcher of cold water, glassware, and a swizzle stick.

Sodawari

This one should be easy. Cut with soda, again usually with ice. Be sure not to stir too much or you’ll lose the bubbles, which would be sad. Sodawari sets can also be had with bottle service in Japan, but expect to pay extra for the sparkling water.

Chilled

While this is generally uncommon, there are two styles that are often served chilled. Very low proof shochu (around 5-15% ABV) has begun to appear on the market and those are often designed to be served chilled like a white wine. Alternatively, hanatare, the head’s of a distillation run, are so pungent that chilling the bottle and pouring if over a big ball of ice serves to make it more palatable. In fact, hanater is best kept in the freezer where the spirit become viscous, which makes for a fun service experience.

Bachiwari

Not a common service style, but it had a moment in NYC a few years ago when Aburiya Kinnosuke made this a service style option. Take a punch bowl, fill it with ice, pour in a bottle of shochu, toss in some citrus rounds or other fruits or aromatics, and voila, you have a shochu punch bowl for communal service. A great way to hang out with friends!

KANPAI!