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Okay, so who is Stephen Lyman? (ep. 85)

January 21, 2025 · Leave a Comment

INTRO

In episode 85, Stephen Lyman finally gets around to introducing himself.

CREDITS

Theme Song: Begin Anywhere by Tomoko Miyata (http://tomokomiyata.net/)

Mixing and Editing: Rich Pav (https://uncannyjapan.com/)

HOSTS

CHRISTOPHER PELLEGRINI Vermont born and bred, long-time Tokyo resident and author of The Shochu Handbook, Christopher learned about delicious fermentations as a beer brewer at Otter Creek (Middlebury, VT). He now spends most of his waking hours convincing strangers that shochu and awamori are unlike anything they’ve ever tried before. 

STEPHEN LYMAN discovered Japan’s indigenous spirits at an izakaya in New York City. He was so enthralled that he now lives in Japan and works in a tiny craft shochu distillery every autumn. His first book, The Complete Guide to Japanese Drinks, was nominated for a 2020 James Beard Award.

Stephen Lyman and Christopher Pellegrini are now joined at the hip, but it has not always been that way.

If you have any comments or questions about this episode, please reach out to Stephen or Christopher via Instagram. We would love to hear from you. 

SHOW NOTES

Who the Heck is Stephen Lyman, anyway?

Stephen Lyman is a native of Buffalo, New York, who had a decidedly different path to Japanese spirits expert than his brother from another mother, Christopher Pellegrini. Stephen grew up in a dry family and attended a dry college. He did not have his first real experience with alcohol until he was 24 years old.

Always interested in many things, Stephen Lyman studied history, political science, and economics in undergrad before considering both linguistics and epidemiology for his master degree, eventually earning a PhD in injury epidemiology with a specialization in sports injuries. This work led him to New York City where his inner foodie blossomed.

Shochu Discovery

Stephen Lyman discovered shochu in November 2007 at Izakaya Ten (now Juban – new owners, very similar vibe) on a cold Tuesday evening when he was out with friends. The Japanese waitress introduced the menu explaining that there was a $20 discount on shochu on Tuesday nights. Baffled, Stephen asked what shochu was. She said “Its like Japanese vodka.” As you are probably aware if you listened to our vodka episode, this is NOT the way to convince Stephen to try something. But the discount was too nice to pass up so a bottle of iichiko silhouette was brought to the table.

Stephen and various friends visited Izakaya Ten about 35 times in the next year as he dove in deep to try to learn about shochu, awamori, and izakaya culture. As basically the only American showing much interest in shochu in NY at the time, this lead to introductions to izakaya owners, Japanese bartenders, and eventually shochu makers when they would visit to do sales work.

Stephen Lyman
Stephen Lyman & Tekkan Wakamatsu at Yamatozakura.

Once the makers had been met it was only a matter of time before the itch to visit Japan and go to shochu distilleries and drink the spirit with the local food became too strong. In 2012 that trip finally happened and the rest, as they say, his history. He was back in Kyushu the following year to make shochu at Yamatozakura (episodes 34, 35, and 36) and by 2018 he was living in Fukuoka.

The Complete Guide to Japanese Drinks

Stephen was given the opportunity to write The Complete Guide to Japanese Drinks (Tuttle, 2019) basically by being a pest toward his eventual co-author Chris Bunting, who had written a very handy little pocket travel guide called Drinking Japan (out of print). Stephen wanted Bunting to update the guide with a new edition, but Tuttle claimed travel guides were now on our smart phones (they were probably right).

Nevertheless, they were given the opportunity to write a complete guide to Japanese beverage alcohol instead. Chris Bunting, who had moved back to the UK by that time after years in Tokyo, shared his photography and original notes, and Stephen did his own research, took his own photos, and took on the heavy lifting of putting the book together.

In 2020, completely unexpectedly, the book was nominated for a James Beard Award despite having no marketing budget whatsoever.

Much More to Explore

If you want to know how Stephen Lyman and Christopher Pellegrini actually met, you’ll have to sign up for our Japan Distilled Patreon. That episode is for our patreons only. We are panning a number of other exclusive offerings for patreons as well, though given how busy we’ve been with everything, we haven’t been able to announce much.

Kanpai!

Who is Christopher Pellegrini? (ep. 84)

January 14, 2025 · Leave a Comment

INTRO

In episode 84, Christopher Pellegrini finally gets around to introducing himself.

CREDITS

Theme Song: Begin Anywhere by Tomoko Miyata (http://tomokomiyata.net/)

Mixing and Editing: Rich Pav (https://uncannyjapan.com/)

HOSTS

CHRISTOPHER PELLEGRINI Vermont born and bred, long-time Tokyo resident and author of The Shochu Handbook, Christopher learned about delicious fermentations as a beer brewer at Otter Creek (Middlebury, VT). He now spends most of his waking hours convincing strangers that shochu and awamori are unlike anything they’ve ever tried before. 

STEPHEN LYMAN discovered Japan’s indigenous spirits at an izakaya in New York City. He was so enthralled that he now lives in Japan and works in a tiny craft shochu distillery every autumn. His first book, The Complete Guide to Japanese Drinks, was nominated for a 2020 James Beard Award.

Stephen Lyman and Christopher Pellegrini are now joined at the hip, but it has not always been that way.

If you have any comments or questions about this episode, please reach out to Stephen or Christopher via Instagram. We would love to hear from you. 

SHOW NOTES

Who the Heck is Christopher Pellegrini, anyway?

Christopher Pellegrini is a native of Bristol, Vermont, who developed an interest in and relationship with beverage alcohol from a very young age when he served as the ad hoc bartender at his parent’s dinner parties. He quickly learned guest’s preferences and how to make drinks to order.

Christopher Pellegrini
Christopher Pellegrini enjoying a glass of oywari shochu, the most likely thing you’ll find him drinking.

From there it was a relatively short leap to high school home brewer (we believe the statute of limitations has run out) and subsequently a commercial brewer at Otter Creek Brewery in Middlebury, Vermont, where Christopher legally could make beer, but was not old enough to drink it.

College dreamed interrupted his brewing career where he focused on cross country running at a liberal arts college in Ohio. After a year in Spain he found himself teaching in South Korea where he met a young woman who wanted to live in Japan and the rest, as they say, is history. Christopher Pellegrini and his better halve have now been denizens of Tokyo for about 23 years.

Shochu Discovery

Shortly after moving to Tokyo, Christopher discovered shochu on a rainy day in a tiny sake bar when the bored bartender decided to trip up the foreigner. After tasting through a flight of Honkaku Shochu, Christopher’s attention was good and got. Within weeks he was on a plane to Kagoshima and knocking on distillery doors. His early attempts at education were rejected. Nobody wanted him poking around their distilleries.

Through friendships he made at shochu bars in Kagoshima City he eventually was able to find some introductions started visiting distilleries. As of today he has poked his head around hundreds of distilleries across Kyushu and Okinawa.

Christopher Pellegrini doing his thing in Tokyo.

As an educator, before long he had the itch to introduce the wonders of Honkaku Shochu and Ryukyu Awamori to others. His shochu meetups in Tokyo began drawing dozens of guests and he eventually became a local Airbnb Host, teaching shochu and awamori to overseas visitors.

The Shochu Handbook

Eventually Christopher realized that his reach was limited in Tokyo, which brought him to write and publish The Shochu Handbook, the first English language guide to shochu. The book now in its second edition and remains required reading for anyone interested these beautiful spirits.

Much More to Explore

To learn even more about Christopher Pellegrini, listen to the catalog of this podcast, his episodes on Sake on Air, watch the archived livestreams on our Japan Distilled YouTube channel. You may also want to dig around Japanese TV, movies, and commercials as he’s been acting professionally for a long time. Oh, and follow him on instagram @christopherpellegrini.

Kanpai!

Big News! UNESCO Koji Fermentation is an Intangible Cultural Heritage (ep. 83)

December 31, 2024 · Leave a Comment

INTRO

UNESCO Koji Fermentation recognition? In episode 83, we discuss the recent announcement that Japanese koji alcohol fermentation has been named an intangible cultural heritage.

CREDITS

Theme Song: Begin Anywhere by Tomoko Miyata (http://tomokomiyata.net/)

Mixing and Editing: Rich Pav (https://uncannyjapan.com/)

HOSTS

CHRISTOPHER PELLEGRINI Vermont born and bred, long-time Tokyo resident and author of The Shochu Handbook, Christopher learned about delicious fermentations as a beer brewer at Otter Creek (Middlebury, VT). He now spends most of his waking hours convincing strangers that shochu and awamori are unlike anything they’ve ever tried before. 

STEPHEN LYMAN discovered Japan’s indigenous spirits at an izakaya in New York City. He was so enthralled that he now lives in Japan and works in a tiny craft shochu distillery every autumn. His first book, The Complete Guide to Japanese Drinks, was nominated for a 2020 James Beard Award.

Stephen and Christopher are longtime proponents of the unique beauty of koji fermentation in Japan. This UNESCO announcement just confirms our beliefs.

If you have any comments or questions about this episode, please reach out to Stephen or Christopher via Instagram. We would love to hear from you. 

SHOW NOTES

UNESCO

UNESCO is the United Nations Educational, Scientific, and Cultural Organization, which is tasked with fostering peace through cross cultural understanding. The “intangible cultural heritage” program is intended to help countries protect their unique cultural heritage and receive international recognition that this cultural heritage is unique to their society.

There have been 788 intangible cultural heritages recognized by UNESCO since the program’s founding. Twenty-three uniquely Japanese cultural heritages have been recognized with both washoku (Japanese food preparation) and now kokushu (Japanese alcohol production) being recognized.

Koji Fermentation

UNESCO koji fermentation

While it is completely fair to say that koji fermentation started in China, it is also completely fair to say that koji fermentation as is used in Japan is completely unique to Japan. The reason is that the Chinese fermentation methods that were imported to Japan in the 500s CE included a slurry of micro-organisms: yeasts, bacteria, and molds. by the 700s, Japanese Buddhist monks in Nara had isolated both lactobacillis bacteria and aspergillus mold to create sake as we know it today.

When distillation technology arrived in the 1400s or 1500s, distillation of koji fermentations created awamori (Okinawa) and shochu (Japan) respectively. These spirits now outsell sake in Japan and are as much a part of the UNESCO intangible cultural heritage for koji alcohol fermentation as their more well known brewed cousin.

How Far Does it Extend?

It is obvious that this UNESCO koji fermentation recognition includes nihonshu/seishu (known as sake overseas), Honkaku Shochu, Ryukyu Awamori, and the lesser known doburoku (a rustic non-filtered alcoholic rice brew that only recently became commercialized).

But what about umeshu (the misnomer plum wine) or other fruit liqueurs made using sake or shochu or awamori as their base alcohol source? How about drinkable honkaku mirin (no salt added)? What about koji spirits that use shochu or awamori as their base spirits as many Japanese gins do?

And perhaps most interestingly, what does this mean for koji whisky? That style that was being made in America decades before malt whisky was made in Japan?

Also, what will this do for koji alcohols overseas? We know that there has been a global boom in Japanese cuisine, but how much influence did UNESCO’s recognition for washoku really have? Likewise, how likely is is that the UNESCO koji fermentation announcement is going to move the needle on global exports of these alcohols? Or is this also just confirmatory?

Much More to Explore

As you can probably tell, we are just beginning to unpack the meaning of the UNESCO koji fermentation announcement. Would love to hear your thoughts as well.

Kanpai!

Talking Koji Cocktails with Grant Lavrenz (ep. 82)

September 26, 2024 · Leave a Comment

INTRO

In episode 82 our host Stephen Lyman sits down at Khaluna Restaurant in Minneapolis with Grant Lavrenz who is doing amazing things with koji spirits in his cocktail program.

CREDITS

Theme Song: Begin Anywhere by Tomoko Miyata (http://tomokomiyata.net/)

Mixing and Editing: Rich Pav (https://uncannyjapan.com/)

HOSTS

CHRISTOPHER PELLEGRINI Vermont born and bred, long-time Tokyo resident and author of The Shochu Handbook, Christopher learned about delicious fermentations as a beer brewer at Otter Creek (Middlebury, VT). He now spends most of his waking hours convincing strangers that shochu and awamori are unlike anything they’ve ever tried before. 

STEPHEN LYMAN discovered Japan’s indigenous spirits at an izakaya in New York City. He was so enthralled that he now lives in Japan and works in a tiny craft shochu distillery every autumn. His first book, The Complete Guide to Japanese Drinks, was nominated for a 2020 James Beard Award.

Stephen and Christopher have deep respect for bartenders who find new ways to surprise their guests with world class cocktails.

If you have any comments or questions about this episode, please reach out to Stephen or Christopher via Twitter. We would love to hear from you. 

SHOW NOTES

Special Guest Grant Lavrenz

Grant Lavrenz
Grant Lavrenz working his magic behind the bar at Khaluna.

After growing up in Iowa, Grant Lavrenz found himself in Minneapolis. His passion for bartending started with home cocktail making and and lead to him being one of the top bartenders in the Twin Cities region. His creativity and mentorship have made him one of the leaders in the koji cocktail movement nationwide whether he knows it or not.

Khaluna

Khaluna is a beautiful Laotian restaurant in central Minneapolis helmed by James Beard-nominated chef Ann Ahmed. These facts alone give Grant a leg up in his freedom to be creative. Very few guests have ever had Laotian food so they are already primed for a new experience. Between the open space, beautiful interior design, and top notch waitstaff, Khaluna has become a prime dining spot in the Twin Cities.

Khaluna
Khaluna’s main dining room with bar against the far wall.
Khaluna’s vibrant food menu provides a perfect backdrop for Grant’s beverage program.

Grant’s bar menu consists of both a list of classic or original cocktails and a highball menu. While he’s creative with both, substituting sweet potato shochu for gin or kokuto sugar shochu for rum, the highball menu is where the gloves really come off. In an effort to reduce kitchen waste, he has created syrups and cordials from unexpected waste products such as jicama. He integrates these into shochu highballs to bring refreshing, low alcohol options to a clientele that has often driven to the restaurant.

Koji Cocktails

While you’ll need to listen to the episode to discover Grant’s philosophy about integrating koji spirits into cocktails, he demonstrated that he’s all in on this nascent category when he devoted an entire weekend bar takeover to cocktails he created with the Honkaku Spirits portfolio.

Speaking of Honkaku Spirits, they are offering, for a limited time, to Japan Distilled listeners a 10% discount and free shipping on a two bottle order from anything available on their online shop.

Stephen can attest, the Jokichi Old Fashioned was the best old fashioned he’s ever had.

Much More to Explore

You can find Grant on Instagram @GrantLavrenz on Instagram. And of course, please stop in and say hello to him at Khaluna Restaurant. He’s not sure yet what the future holds, but right now Khaluna is his home and he loves the people and the community they’ve created. Highly recommend you stop in for a visit when and if you find yourself in the Twin Cities.

Kanpai!

Nankai Shochu: a conversation with founder Paul Nakayama (ep. 81)

August 28, 2024 · Leave a Comment

INTRO

In episode 81 our host Stephen Lyman is joined by founder of Nankai Shochu, the first kokuto sugar shochu developed specifically for the US market.

CREDITS

Theme Song: Begin Anywhere by Tomoko Miyata (http://tomokomiyata.net/)

Mixing and Editing: Rich Pav (https://uncannyjapan.com/)

HOSTS

CHRISTOPHER PELLEGRINI Vermont born and bred, long-time Tokyo resident and author of The Shochu Handbook, Christopher learned about delicious fermentations as a beer brewer at Otter Creek (Middlebury, VT). He now spends most of his waking hours convincing strangers that shochu and awamori are unlike anything they’ve ever tried before. 

STEPHEN LYMAN discovered Japan’s indigenous spirits at an izakaya in New York City. He was so enthralled that he now lives in Japan and works in a tiny craft shochu distillery every autumn. His first book, The Complete Guide to Japanese Drinks, was nominated for a 2020 James Beard Award.

Stephen and Christopher have a deep admiration for people who chase their dreams of bringing Japanese spirits to foreign markets.

If you have any comments or questions about this episode, please reach out to Stephen or Christopher via Twitter. We would love to hear from you. 

SHOW NOTES

Special Guest Paul Nakayama

Paul and Mai
Paul and Mai Nakayama, founders of Nankai Shochu.

Los Angeles native Paul Nakayama worked in tech before he and his wife Mai honeymooned on her home island of Amami Oshima. That 2015 trip changed everything when they happened to meet the chairman of Machida Distillery at an izakaya after a day of outdoor adventure. Within three years they had given up their day jobs to start Nankai Shochu.

Nankai Shochu

As a nod to the California shochu laws (listen to episodes 40 and 77) when they launched the brand, Nankai Shochu was born as a 24% vacuum distilled kokuto sugar shochu. They soon followed with Nankai Gold (barrel aged, undiluted, 43% ABV) and Nankai White Oak (barrel aged, proofed down to 24%). All 3 expressions have won gold or double gold at Los Angeles, World Spirits, or Spirits Business competitions.

Nankai Shochu
Nankai 24% and Nankai Gold 43%

Early on cocktails have been a big part of their sales strategy and that continues through to today with dozens of recipes available on their website and Instagram.

If you like some kick in your cocktails, Nankai’s Thai Chili Mango may be for you.

They have found an excellent partner in Machida Distillery and have no plans to move beyond them for their kokuto shochu offerings.

Distillery staff at Machida Distillery sampling the fermentation.

Nikaido Shochu

Of course, success begets success and they were approached by Nikaido 100% barley shochu out of Oita, the first national shochu brand in Japan back in the 1970s. Despite this early success, Nikaido has never had a particularly strong presence in the US market. They turned to Paul and Mai to correct that oversight.

And did they ever hit the ground running, placing Nikaido in the club level lounge at Dodgers Stadium, to our knowledge the first ever shochu available at a Major League Baseball stadium. As big baseball fans, we at Japan Distilled podcast are super excited about this!

Much More to Explore

As always, there is more to learn from listening to the episode or following Stephen, Christopher, and Paul on social media.

Kanpai!

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