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Talking Kagoshima Shochu Culture with Maya Aley (ep. 90)

July 20, 2025 · Leave a Comment

INTRO

In episode 90, Stephen and Christopher chat with Maya Aley of Shochu Bar Roku about Kagoshima shochu culture.

CREDITS

Theme Song: Begin Anywhere by Tomoko Miyata (http://tomokomiyata.net/)

Mixing and Editing: Rich Pav (https://uncannyjapan.com/)

HOSTS

CHRISTOPHER PELLEGRINI Vermont born and bred, long-time Tokyo resident and author of The Shochu Handbook, Christopher learned about delicious fermentations as a beer brewer at Otter Creek (Middlebury, VT). He now spends most of his waking hours convincing strangers that shochu and awamori are unlike anything they’ve ever tried before. 

STEPHEN LYMAN discovered Japan’s indigenous spirits at an izakaya in New York City. He was so enthralled that he now lives in Japan and works in a tiny craft shochu distillery every autumn. His first book, The Complete Guide to Japanese Drinks, was nominated for a 2020 James Beard Award.

Stephen Lyman and Christopher Pellegrini have a deep appreciation for Kagoshima Shochu Culture.

If you have any comments or questions about this episode, please reach out to Stephen or Christopher via Instagram. We would love to hear from you. 

SHOW NOTES

Who is Maya Aley?

Maya Aley is an American from Connecticut who moved to Kagoshima over a decade ago to teach English. In her early social interactions with the Japanese teachers at her school, she ended up drinking a lot of sweet potato shochu without understanding what it was. She gradually developed a taste for it and by the time she had decided to leave her role teaching English, but staying in Kagoshima, she decided to enroll in Kagoshima University’s Shochu Meister Course, a continuing education program that results in a shochu certification from the Kagoshima Shochu Makers Association. Maya was the first non-Japanese to complete this course.

Maya Aley behind the bar at Shochu Bar Roku.

Maya then earned her shochu kikizaskeshi (national certification) before landing a job tending bar at Honkaku Shochu Bar Ishizue in the Tenmonkan Neighborhood of Kagoshima City. Today she is the manager of Shochu Bar Roku, which is the sister bar of Ishizue. Their 3rd location Shochu Bistro Gou opened a couple years ago.

Kagsohima Shochu Culture
Honkaku Shochu Bar Ishizue

Honkaku Shochu Bar Ishizue is the most formal of the three locations, but also the place where you can try more shochu than anywhere else in Kagoshima. They carry 1,500 shochu from Kagoshima, almost all in the 1.8L format.

Kagoshima Shochu Culture

This episode covers a wide range of experiences that Maya, Christopher, and Stephen have all had that demonstrates the deep cultural importance of shochu to the people of Kagoshima. The Kagoshima shochu culture is deeply rooted with over 100 active distilleries and being the home to the 2 biggest shochu guilds during the 20th century, Kagoshima is without a doubt the most shochu-focused prefecture of Japan’s 47 prefectures, albeit that goes with a strong nod to Miyazaki which outsells Kagoshima by annual volume, but has fewer distilleries. They just happen to have 2 of the biggest: Kirishima and Unkai.

Kagoshima Shochu Culture
Maya providing education to guests.

With the recent resurgence of inbound tourism, more and more people are visiting Kagoshima for the natural wonders of Yakushima Island, but also to experience the unique culture of the southern most prefecture in Japan’s home islands. Okinawa is further south and has a culture all its own, but Kagoshima, or what used to be the Satsuma Domain, was so remote from Edo (Tokyo) that the local culture is also quite unique compared to what you’ll find in the Kanto or Kansai regions of Japan.

To Learn More

For more information on the Shochu Meister Course, which now offers remote options for international students, please check out their website.

And if you make it to Kagoshima, please visit Maya Aley at Shochu Bar Roku. She will give you an incredible experience full of hospitality and education.

Kanpai!

The Spirit of Japan: interview with director Joseph Overbey (ep. 89)

July 2, 2025 · Leave a Comment

INTRO

In episode 89, Stephen chats with his longtime friend and collaborator Joseph Overbey about their upcoming film, The Spirit of Japan.

CREDITS

Theme Song: Begin Anywhere by Tomoko Miyata (http://tomokomiyata.net/)

Mixing and Editing: Rich Pav (https://uncannyjapan.com/)

HOSTS

CHRISTOPHER PELLEGRINI Vermont born and bred, long-time Tokyo resident and author of The Shochu Handbook, Christopher learned about delicious fermentations as a beer brewer at Otter Creek (Middlebury, VT). He now spends most of his waking hours convincing strangers that shochu and awamori are unlike anything they’ve ever tried before. 

STEPHEN LYMAN discovered Japan’s indigenous spirits at an izakaya in New York City. He was so enthralled that he now lives in Japan and works in a tiny craft shochu distillery every autumn. His first book, The Complete Guide to Japanese Drinks, was nominated for a 2020 James Beard Award.

Stephen Lyman and Christopher Pellegrini have a deep love for cinema whether it be fiction or documentary. To have a shochu documentary about to appear on screens across the world is beyond a thrill.

If you have any comments or questions about this episode, please reach out to Stephen or Christopher via Instagram. We would love to hear from you. 

SHOW NOTES

The Beginning.

spirit of japan
Joseph (left) and Stephen (right) enjoying Yamatozakura shochu years ago at a Chinese restaurant in NYC of all places.

Way back in 2012, Joseph Overbey was making JW Overbey Whiskey at his microdistillery in Brooklyn when he and his girlfriend snuck into a booze show at Javitz Center in Manhattan. The reason? He wanted to hear Stephen’s shochu seminar at the Japan Pavillion at the show. Afterward he introduced himself to Stephen and their friendship began.

Stephen visited Joseph’s distillery and Joseph joined Stephen’s frequent izakaya parties. One night in 2015 over some shochu, Joseph expressed that he was thinking about getting into filmmaking after decades working in photography. Stephen told Joseph about his upcoming trip to work at Yamatozakura. They decided Joseph should come to Japan and film at the distillery while Stephen was working.

Perhaps they thought a documentary about a crazy American who spends his vacation doing manual labor would be interesting to someone somewhere or may be they just thought it would be fun to make something together. Either way, the result is much more than either of them could have imagined.

The Spirit of Japan

A lot of art projects start with a working title with a better name coming along later. The Spirit of Japan was the name of our documentary project from the very beginning. Joseph came to Yamatozakura in rural Kagoshima in October 2016 and October 2017.

An example of Joseph’s incredible cinematic eye taken at Yamatozakura during his visit in 2016.

In 2016 he was a fly on the wall, just capturing imagery of the shochu making process, the people making shochu, and the surrounding area on the southwestern coast of Kyushu.

A year later after seeing the footage, he would return with a much clearer idea of what he wanted to shoot and what questions he wanted to ask. The Spirit of Japan was born out of that exploration. Interviews with Tekkan Wakamatsu, the head distiller at Yamatozakura, and his father (the owner-president) would form the backbone of a story that is much more compelling than crazy-foreigner-works-in-japan-for-fun. Stephen barely appears in the finished film and that’s 100% okay with him.

A Very Long Project

This was Joseph’s first documentary film. And it was shot 100% in Japanese. And he doesn’t speak Japanese. And film editors willing to work for pennies on the dollar who are fluent in both English and Japanese are not that common. it took until 2019 for Joseph to meet Tom Bayles, a film editor and professional Japanese-English translator.

Stephen and Joseph showing a clip of The Spirit of Japan at Brooklyn Kitchen for a crowdfunding event.

They spent their COVID work-from-home downtime editing the documentary over zoom. A rough cut came together pretty quickly, but its since been years of tweaking and workshopping and evolving to reach to the point where the film is ready for the light of day.

Joseph’s hard work has paid off. The film has already been acquired by a PBS affiliate for US broadcast and will premiere as the closing night film at JAPAN CUTS 2025 at the Japan Society in NYC on July 20th.

If you’re interested in attending, please buy tickets here. Joseph, Stephen, and Tekkan will all be there for a Q&A after the show and Yamatozakura shochu will be served at the closing night party after the screening!

Kanpai!

Shochu Live 2025: America’s 1st Ever Shochu Festival (ep. 88)

June 21, 2025 · Leave a Comment

INTRO

In episode 88, Stephen chats with Kayoko Akabori of Umami Mart about the 1st ever American shochu festival! Shochu Live will be held on June 28th in Oakland, CA.

CREDITS

Theme Song: Begin Anywhere by Tomoko Miyata (http://tomokomiyata.net/)

Mixing and Editing: Rich Pav (https://uncannyjapan.com/)

HOSTS

CHRISTOPHER PELLEGRINI Vermont born and bred, long-time Tokyo resident and author of The Shochu Handbook, Christopher learned about delicious fermentations as a beer brewer at Otter Creek (Middlebury, VT). He now spends most of his waking hours convincing strangers that shochu and awamori are unlike anything they’ve ever tried before. 

STEPHEN LYMAN discovered Japan’s indigenous spirits at an izakaya in New York City. He was so enthralled that he now lives in Japan and works in a tiny craft shochu distillery every autumn. His first book, The Complete Guide to Japanese Drinks, was nominated for a 2020 James Beard Award.

Stephen Lyman and Christopher Pellegrini can’t believe there is actually going to be a shochu festival in the US and neither of them can be there at Shochu Live!

If you have any comments or questions about this episode, please reach out to Stephen or Christopher via Instagram. We would love to hear from you. 

SHOW NOTES

Shochu Live!

Way back in episode 31 in March 2022, Kayoko Akabori and her partner Yoko Kumano about their uniquely amazing Japanese specialty shop in Oakland, California. Flash forward 3 years and 3 months and Umami Mart is hosting Shochu Live, the very first shochu festival in North America.

Inspired by a conversation with Jamie Graves, the Japan Portfolio Manager for Skunik Wines, at a sake festival in California, Kayoko decided that there is no time like the present to begin a shochu festival. And thus Shochu Live was born. In short order she’s put together a stellar program of shochu companies, importers, education, and a DJ.

shochu live
Umami Mart’s upsidedown shochu sever, a gift from Reina Mori at Izakaya Yokaban in Kagoshima.

The Details

The Guest Distillers, Brands, & Importers:
Tadashi Yanagita of Yanagita Distillery (Miyazaki)
Hisao Taura of Kirishima Distillery (Miyazaki)
Jamie Graves, Skurnik Wines 
Jake Tennenbaum, Honkaku Spirits 
Taeko Ichioka, Mizu Shochu
Chris Lane, High Road Spirits

Shochus featured:
Yanagita Aokage Genshu (Barley) from Yanagita Distillery
Yanagita Koma (Barley) from Yanagita Distillery
The SG Mugi  (Barley) from Sanwa Shurui in Oita
Mizu Sakura Cask (Barley) from Munemasa Distillery in Saga
Mizu Green Tea (Barley) from Munemasa Distillery in Saga
Mizu Saga Barley (Barley) from Munemasa Distillery in Saga
Kirishima 8 (Sweet Potato) from Kirishima Distillery
Kuro Kirishima (Sweet Potato) from Kirishima Distillery
Watanabe Penguin Winter (Sweet Potato) from Watanabe Distillery in Miyazaki
Kiroku Muroka (Sweet Potato) from Kuroki Honten in Miyazaki
Toji Junpei (Sweet Potato) from Kodama Distillery in Miyazaki
Yamato Zakura (Sweet Potato) from Yamatozakura Distillery in Kagoshima
Daiyame (Sweet Potato) from Hamada Distillery in Kagoshima
Daiyame 40% (Sweet Potato) from Hamada Distillery in Kagoshima
The SG Kome (Rice) from Takahashi Distillery in Kumamoto
Tsutsumi Taru 12yr (Rice) from Tsutsumi Distillery in Kumamoto
Selephant (Kokuto) from Nishihira Distillery in the Amami Islands
Shigamasu (Kasutori) from Takahashi Shoten Brewery in Fukuoka
Yokka Koji Awamori from Chuko Distillery in Okinawa

Seminars:
2-2:30p – How to Drink Shochu by Tadashi Yanagita (RSVP to shochu@umamimart.com)
1-4p – What is Shochu? Info Booth by Kayoko Akabori

Food by (sold separately): 
Pal Burgers
Casa de Kei

Music by:
Vivien Bovell
DJ Wiley Coyote

WHAT: SHOCHU LIVE
America’s first and only shochu festival! Featuring over 20+ honkaku shochu and awamori from Japan, plus presentations on how to enjoy the spirit

WHEN: Saturday, 28 June 2025, 1-4pm

WHERE: Umami Mart
4027 Broadway, Oakland CA 94611
phone: 510-250-9559. email: shop@umamimart.com

ADMISSION: Buy tix now! Presale – $60 / $50 members with code. $60 at the door.
Become a member today! This is a 21+ event.

“How I Met Shochu” Contest!

As we mentioned on the podcast, if you create an Instagram reel explaining how you discovered shochu, you have a chance to win either 2 free tickets to Shochu Live at Umami Mart or a discount on your next purchase from umamimart.com.

The rules are simple. Create a reel (not a post or a story) explaining how you met shochu and tag @umamimart and @japandistilled – hint, we recommend you also tag @christopherpellegrini as well as all of the distillers and importers who will be at the show (do your own research on their handles – they are all on Instagram!) to get them to amplify your reel. We will pick a winner a few days before the show.

We can’t wait to see your creativity in action!

Kanpai!

Live Show! Koji Spirits Chat at Charleston Wine & Food Festival (ep. 87)

May 18, 2025 · Leave a Comment

INTRO

In episode 87, Stephen chats koji spirits in Charleston, South Carolina as a guest of Imbibe Magazine‘s editor in Chief, Paul Clarke (listen to episode 69 for more of his thoughts on Japanese spirits) and James Beard Award winning author, bartender, and bar owner, Julia Momose. The trio hosted a live panel discussion of koji spirits to a group of guests, most of whom had never tried shochu, awamori, or koji whiskey before.

CREDITS

Theme Song: Begin Anywhere by Tomoko Miyata (http://tomokomiyata.net/)

Mixing and Editing: Rich Pav (https://uncannyjapan.com/)

HOSTS

CHRISTOPHER PELLEGRINI Vermont born and bred, long-time Tokyo resident and author of The Shochu Handbook, Christopher learned about delicious fermentations as a beer brewer at Otter Creek (Middlebury, VT). He now spends most of his waking hours convincing strangers that shochu and awamori are unlike anything they’ve ever tried before. 

STEPHEN LYMAN discovered Japan’s indigenous spirits at an izakaya in New York City. He was so enthralled that he now lives in Japan and works in a tiny craft shochu distillery every autumn. His first book, The Complete Guide to Japanese Drinks, was nominated for a 2020 James Beard Award.

Stephen Lyman and Christopher Pellegrini love speaking to live audience about these beautiful spirits.

If you have any comments or questions about this episode, please reach out to Stephen or Christopher via Instagram. We would love to hear from you. 

SHOW NOTES

Charleston Wine & Food Festival

The Charleston Wine & Food Festival is the largest independent wine festival in the United States, with dozens of events featuring hundreds of chefs, restaurants, bartenders, and alcohol brands in Charleston, South Carolina, one of the most interesting cities in America to eat and drink. This year’s festival was March 5-8. Definitely worth checking in 2026 if you have the chance.

koji spirits
Lineup at 2025 Charleston Wine and Food

Imbibe Magazine does daily beverage alcohol seminars throughout the festival and this year Paul Clarke visited Stephen and Julia to come to Charleston to talk koji spirits in a community with very few Japanese restaurants. For most of the guests, they had never tried shochu before, let alone awamori or koji whiskey.

The discussion was lively and educational and the guests asked great questions. Have a listen to learn more.

What did People Try?

The full menu at the koji spirits panel.

Akae Sweet Potato Shochu (25% ABV) Ochiai Distillery in Miyazaki. Rich, lightly filtered classic sweet potato expression.

Mugi Hokka Roasted Barley Shochu (25% ABV) Tensei Distillery in Kagoshima. Notes of coffee, dark chocolate, and toast. Rich and unctuous.

Shigemasu Sake Lees Shochu (30.5% ABV) Takahashi Shoten in Fukuoka. A vacuum distilled beauty with ginjo aroma character for days.

Yokka Koji Awamori (43% ABV) Chuko Distillery in Okinawa. An absolute shape shifter – can be used as a vodka, rum, tequila, or whisky replacement in cocktail applications.

Takamine 8 Year Koji Whiskey (40.3% ABV) Shinozaki Distillery in Fukuoka. The classic 100% barley koji whiskey that was featured in the NY Times in January.

Much more to Learn

This discussion just scratched the surface. Dig into Stephen and Christopher’s books to learn more or listen to back episodes of Japan Distilled.

Kanpai!

Surgeon General’s Warning (ep. 86)

March 25, 2025 · 2 Comments

INTRO

In episode 86, Stephen spends some time musing on the recent announcement that the U.S. Surgeon General recommends cancer warnings on beverage alcohol labels.

CREDITS

Theme Song: Begin Anywhere by Tomoko Miyata (http://tomokomiyata.net/)

Mixing and Editing: Rich Pav (https://uncannyjapan.com/)

HOSTS

CHRISTOPHER PELLEGRINI Vermont born and bred, long-time Tokyo resident and author of The Shochu Handbook, Christopher learned about delicious fermentations as a beer brewer at Otter Creek (Middlebury, VT). He now spends most of his waking hours convincing strangers that shochu and awamori are unlike anything they’ve ever tried before. 

STEPHEN LYMAN discovered Japan’s indigenous spirits at an izakaya in New York City. He was so enthralled that he now lives in Japan and works in a tiny craft shochu distillery every autumn. His first book, The Complete Guide to Japanese Drinks, was nominated for a 2020 James Beard Award.

Stephen Lyman and Christopher Pellegrini support mindful drinking habits and will always applaud anyone who is drinking smarter.

If you have any comments or questions about this episode, please reach out to Stephen or Christopher via Instagram. We would love to hear from you. 

SHOW NOTES

Alcohol Causes Cancer?

Indirectly, yes. Acetaldehyde is a a bi-product of ethanol metabolism. Acetaldehyade is also a known carcinogen. As a result, ethanol itself has been designated a class 1 carcinogen by the World Health organization since 1998.

surgeon general
Any amount of alcohol carries some risk according to the US Surgeon General.

Given that any alcohol that is consumed will be converted to acetaldehyde before it is again metabolized into acetate, there is a cancer risk associated with any alcohol consumption. However, that risk is limited. Once the acetaldehyde is converted to acetate, the cancer threat is over. If the acetaldehyde did not result in a spontaneous cell mutation which became a malignant (cancerous) cell, the risk has passed. Until the next drink. And the one after that.

With the build up of alcohol consumption episodes that risk that a malignant mutation occurs becomes more likely. However, that cell mutation also needs to mutate into a cell that can reproduce to cause a tumor to grow.

As a result, despite this risk, alcohol is only thought to be responsible for about 5% of cancer diagnoses with nearly 20% due to tobacco use and 8% to obesity. UV radiation, unhealthy diet, and physical inactivity are the other major lifestyle risk factors for cancer.

Why Now?

If beverage alcohol has been a known carcinogen for 27 years, why is the Surgeon General only now beginning to think about putting warnings on labels? Many people still do not realize that alcohol can cause cancer, but most people now know that alcohol consumption can harm the unborn fetus and that drinking and driving don’t mix. The warning labels on alcohol have raised awareness. It’s probably past time that these warnings include cancer risk.

It’s unlikely to change drinking behaviors as much as other headwinds that beverage alcohol faces in the marketplace between newly legalized alternative mood altering drugs (hello, Mary Jane) and the fact that the new miracle weight loss drugs do not mix well with alcohol. As a result, people are already drinking less.

Taken all together we are likely to have more people making smarter decisions about when and how they drink alcohol and you can count us among those who think that’s a good thing. Therefore, we agree with the Surgeon General’s recommendation.

Much More to Explore

Stephen is fond of saying “Life’s too short to drink bad booze.” Perhaps that needs to be amended to “Bad booze isn’t worth the risk.” Anyway, he will work on a new slogan. In the meantime, enjoy in moderation as we have been encouraging since episode 51 if not before.

Kanpai!

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